Pauline De Rothschild Vintage Clothing

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wikicollecting

2015-06-26 10:43:39

Pauline De Rothschild Vintage Clothing is original couture clothing created by the French 20th century designer Pauline de Rothschild.

History and Description

Pauline de Rothschild (1908 - 1976) was a Parisian of wealthy American parentage, strongly connected to the British aristocracy. Most famous as a fashion designer, she also worked as a fashion model, and eventually as a writer, and a translator of Elizabethan poetry.

Her first collection (made under the label Macey-Potter, with a friend) was a failure, but she subsequently worked successfully for ten years as designer for Hattie Carnegie, New York, creating clothes principally for the elite of American and British society, including the Duchess of Windsor. She also designed the costumes for the female cast members of the Broadway production of Sartre's No Exit in 1946.

Guide For Collectors

Hattie Carnegie was notoriously difficult to work for, and preferred credit for designs to be taken by the company. Pauline de Rothschild was one of several designers who worked for the company, none of whom were directly credited on the label.

Collectors must therefore search for designs labelled as Carnegie, and look for clues in the design to be sure which designer created the garment. Rothschild worked for Carnegie between 1943 and 1953, a period which straddles the very distinctive and conflicting styles of ‘wartime utility’ and ‘new look’.

It is also important to remember that, while Carnegie sold ‘ready to wear’ clothes from the early 1930s onward, Rothschild specifically designed for the ‘custom’ side of the business.

Value

The following are garments originally sold under the Hattie Carnegie label, designed during Pauline de Rothschild’s decade as resident Carnegie designer.

In June 2011 a yellow brocade dress was sold by Kaminski Auctions for $60. In September 2006, a black wool jacket and matching skirt were sold for $106 by Skinner.

In April 2009 a cream chiffon and brocade ballgown was sold by Leslie Hindman Auctioneers for $300. In December 2010 a blue silk chiffon dress was sold by Leslie Hindman Auctioneers for $300.

In April 2007 an ermine cape and cap were sold by William J. Jenack Auctioneers for $70. In July 2009 a black mink shawl was sold by Clars Auction Gallery for $50.

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